Abberton is suddenly and rapidly moving into the 21st century as a new type of customer patronises the club with his (and her) trade. Gone are the days when a grubby, unshaven little man sat in the corner of the bar supping his Guinness. Actually, that's not quite true, the Head of Security still has not embraced the grape, but there can be no doubting that a 'new breed' of more sophisticated punter is here to stay.
Main supplier Paul Da Vino (pictured right) takes up the story: "The club used to stock some truly revolting varietals such as Belarussian Cabernet and the traditional Liebfraumilchs such as Blue Nun, Black Tower and Purple Helmet. It was really no surprise that nobody bothered trying them on more than one occasion.
However, during the last few months there has been an increasing number of discerning customers whose tastes need to be accommodated if we are to take this club forward.
The Blossom Hill Brigade, Lady Cava-Paget and highly-respected local wine connoisseur Brian Le Blanc are among those who have 'upped the ante' as far as the drinks offerings are concerned. I have started to introduce new producers with exciting wines to tempt their palettes and I aim to feature a 'Wine of the Month', the first of which is detailed below."
Ash Grove Merlot
Country of origin: Turkey
Grape varieties: Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%
ABV: 14.5%
Food matching: Bacon Bites, Old Trout
The Ash Grove Merlot is a fine example of the new Merlots which are popping up all over the world. This offering is from very old (and probably) withered vines and has a slightly gingery taste on the palate, although this will almost certainly dimish with proper cellaring.
Without doubt this superb wine has massive body and it is the high concentration of blackcurranty Merlot grapes which produce the extremely long and obvious purplish nose. Boasts a very high alocohol content. Best drunk late afternoon / early evening or on other rare occasions when allowed to be uncorked.
Paul's verdict: Definitely not to be sniffed at!
Tudor Court Riesling
Country of origin: Republic of Mersea / Hungary
Grape varieties: Riesling 70%, Tokai 30%
ABV: 12.5%
Food matching: Ghoulash, Pusztapörkölt
The Tudor Court Riesling is quite simply a marvel of modern day viticulture. Mersea Island winemaker and ex-Guernsey resident Jean-Pierre le Focus-Zetec has reinvigorated withered old gnarled Riesling vines by grafting them on to fresh lithe Hungarian Tokai rootstock.
The prodcuct is very 'upfront' particularly if extra Hungarian grapes are added during pressing and is consequently not suited to the younger palates at The Brow. One problem J-P is yet to overcome is the tendency towards a secondary fermentation, especially if there is a lack of the Hungarian varietal for a few weeks.
Paul's verdict: Amazing what the Tokai grape does to what would otherwise be vinegar!
Everett's View 'Witts End' Cabernet Savignon, 1941
Country of origin: The chalky southfacing upslopes of Alresford Ciry and environs
Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon
ABV: 12%
Food matching: Chicken Sandwich and chips
One of the few 'war' vintage Cabernets made by veteran Everett Estates winemaker John Stockbridge (69). Most of the 1941 vintage left in circulation is completely tasteless and unpalatable and has a tendency to leave a very sour taste in one's mouth. Very, very occassionally, as of here, one can find the odd bottle that is still presentable with an agreeable aroma, blood red colour and bags of body, but such finds are few and far between.
In the main therefore 'caveat emptor'! This appalling vintage is best avoided as most of it was badly cellared resulting in a wine with a smell reminiscent of rotting cabbage and a colour more purple than a bruised groin!
Paul's verdict: Definitely an acquired taste.
Farmer Giles' 'Johnson's Hole' Pinot Noir
Country of origin: England, in particular the small Buckinghamshire village of Chalfont St Giles
Grape varieties: Pinot Noir
ABV: 14%
Food matching: anything Welts is buying
A real one-off in as much that this varietal is almost unheard of in such northern climes. However, winemaker Orlando 'Farmer' Giles, one of the up and coming stars of English viticulture, has successfully grown Pinot Noir vines that produce huge bunches of grapes between two mounds of land in an area the locals call 'Johnson's Hole'. In fact, the grapes are that swollen with juice that each individual bunch has to be cushioned to stop them reaching the ground by a small rubber ring! The resultant wine has a rounded, extremely corpulent body to it that seems to get even bigger with age. It can leave a sour taste on an older palatte.
Pauls verdict: Best drunk young before it gets too 'big'!
Gray & Sons Late Harvest Semillon
Country of origin: England, principally the mainly pastureland plains of the Horkesley veldt
Grape varieties: Semillon
ABV: 10%
Food matching: Curled up sandwiches and cheap Asda cakes
This wine is produced in the ‘noble rot’ way from grapes grown in the Allotment areas above the Nayland valley on the Essex/Suffolk border. The large, fat, overripe fruit are fairly ugly on the eye and, when lightly pressed, give forth a weak looking whine which, many critics have said, gives off a surprisingly unpleasantly acrid nose. This is a wine that demands to be noticed and a number of highly respected correspondents (including our own Brian Le Blanc) are unable to tolerate the output, even in small quantities as it is known to cause major bowel irritation and the prevention of runs is almost impossible. Often available in supermarkets and local department stores on a BOGOF deal.
Paul's verdict: Somewhat acid on the palate and likely to give a pain in the backside.
